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Training and testing in climbing workshop

Saturday 24th November

Programme

8:00 - 8:45 Registration for the Climbing workshop - faculty entrance
9:00 - 9:30 Simon Fryer - Hemodynamic adaptations in climbers and the implication for training
9:30 - 10:00 David Giles - Critical power in rock climbers
10:00 - 10:30 Dicle Aras, Güney Çetinkaya - Effects of four-week fingerboard local electromyostimulation training on wrist strength and endurance

Mirjam Limmer - Acute effects of kinesio tape application over wrist flexor muscles on grip strength and sports climbing performance
10:30 - 11:00 COFFEE BREAK
11:00 - 11:30 Stefan Künzell et al. - Tactical decisions in bouldering after failures

Andrey Shunko, T. Kravchuk - The effect of the psychomotor abilities level on the result in speed climbing of young climbers 1-2 years of study
11:30 - 12:00 Poster section
12:30 LUNCH
14:00 - 14:30 Michail Michailov - Optimisation of finger strength and endurance training
14:30 - 15:00 Espen Hermans et al. - Climbing specific training methods and its effect on performance
15:00 - 15:30 COFFEE BREAK
15:30 - 16:00 Jiří Baláš - Recovery during and after climbing
16:00 - 16:30 „Climbing“ laboratory visit
16:30 - 17:30 Round table "Science for Practice" - scientists, trainers, competitors. What the science can offer and what the climbers need from science.
19:00 Banquet


Organisers:
Faculty of Physical Education and Sport Department of Outdoor Sports
Partners:
Ceský horolezecký svaz Singing Rock